I put on my big girl boots and began digging seven holes, two feet deep, to set the posts for the back of my garden bed wall.I took my time, but no matter what, I ended up with sore muscles every time I worked on this project.Gravel was added at the bottom and all around the 4 x 4 posts, making sure the post was level.A long piece of wood was the good'ol tool to compact that gravel.The next step, installing the boards, was much easier.Starting at the lowest part and working one layer at a time until reaching a full contiguous line.The posts were trimmed to size using a reciprocating saw.Before finishing the retaining wall, I went ahead and filled the area with a good amount of soil.And well, this picture above is how the garden bed looked during Spring this year.The trampoline was removed and grass seeds were planted.:)I'm so glad to finally get to see the fruits of all that hard work!For more DIY - Backyard projects check these out:. .
How to Build a Raised Bed Along a Fence
Raised garden beds save space, provide superior drainage, warm up faster than garden plots below soil grade and allow you to maintain total control of the soil content without amending poor native soil. .
How To Avoid 5 Common Mistakes And Build The Best Raised
But worried you’re going to waste time and money if you don’t build them right or fill them with the wrong soil?They say that the chemicals in the lumber are locked in and don’t leach out even in very wet soil.It just takes one family member who has a repressed immune system or a young child to fall sick.There are so many other alternatives that in my opinion using PT lumber for raised garden beds that will grow food crops just isn’t worth the risk.And PT lumber should be used for deck framing as it is stronger than cedar or redwood.Modular raised garden beds made out of wood, bricks, cinder blocks or stone are easier to break up and you can use the materials again for new raised beds in a different location or shape.A standard maximum width is usually 4 feet (1.2m) assuming you can reach in from both sides of the bed.If the bed is against a fence and you only have access to one side, make the maximum 2-3 feet (0.5-1m).I used 3 foot (1m) pathways (see photo) but you could go down to 2 feet (0.5m) if it is only for access by one person for planting, weeding and harvesting.Download the Free Family Raised Bed garden Guide Discover how you can setup a vegetable garden so you to grow food for your family at home Download the Free Guide Now.However one flaw with this is that the exposed ends of the posts will absorb water from rain and irrigation.Here are some cedar ones you can find on Amazon if you are having problems sourcing them from a local lumber yard or big box store.The better way is to avoid the posts in the first place and tie the corners together with metal brackets or more sturdy construction.My raised garden bed design uses some 2×4 vertical braces to strengthen the corners but then uses 1×4 trim on top to cap the ends of the 2x4s.For more info on capping end grain including an interesting video demonstration, I’ve written an article that covers the 7 Essential Tips For Building Long-lasting Structures.I regret that now as the soil I got had a bit too much sand in it and ended up turning to concrete if not protected by mulch.Persistent herbicides are often still used on hay fields to kill broadleaf weeds.Horses and other livestock eat the hay but the persistent herbicide does not break down during the digestive process. .
Building a Raised Garden Bed
Here are some easy to follow instructions for building a raised garden bed along a shed (or fence, or whatever!).I knew I had wanted to build some raised garden beds for a while, and I was/am planning on using them for veggies.We had a 12′ length of 4×4 pressure treated wood sitting in our garage, so we cut it into four even sections.Tip: You’ll also want to make sure your posts are level on all angles (ie: upwards from the front and side – aka Y and Z axis).Remember how we put our first board a foot away from the shed which left a gap between the planter and the wall?We could have continued putting the long boards on the same side, but it would have been too hard to screw into.This photo above shows my planter idea “doubters”: my Papa on the left, and the Husband on the right.My Papa especially thought these planters were excessive, and wanted us to build some that were only a foot high… bah!We continued the walls on the inside of the box, and it butted up nicely against the top ledge.There is a bit of a gap along the ground at the center of the raised beds, but we’ll be able to fill that in with dirt when we get it delivered.I’d love to hear your thoughts in the comments, and remember to check back in next week for tips on how to fill your beds! .
Raised bed against chain link
I was planning on drilling holes in the boards and using zip ties to attach to the fence. .
Building a Raised Garden Bed Against a Fence
Step 1 – Plan for the Garden Bed.Drill 2 holes into each side of each plank.Hammer in nails in each one of the holes to attach the planks to the posts.Take one of the short sides with posts that you constructed in the previous step and stand it up using the pointed ends facing upwards.Drill 2 holes into each side of each plank to prepare for the nails as above.Hammer the long 6-feet planks into the post of the short side.Stand up the other short side that you constructed in the previous step and hammer the other end of the long planks to one of its posts.Set it beside the appropriate fence and push the pointed ends into your yard. .
6 things to think about before preparing a raised bed garden
However, for the purpose of this article, I’m going to talk about the standard rectangular raised beds that are generally built from untreated, rot-resistant wood (like Niki’s amazing raised bed setup) or concrete blocks, as well as what you might want to think about when preparing a raised bed garden.Things to think about when preparing a raised bed garden.If you are putting your raised bed on a hard surface, like a driveway, or over hard-packed soil, you want to make sure it’s deep enough for plants (especially root vegetables like beets and carrots) to root.Here are some tips for planning where to put your raised bed.The grass will break down and voilà!Do you want to install irrigation?As far as type of soil, I like to emphasize buying the best quality that you can afford when preparing a raised bed garden.Should you stake the sides?One thing I wish that I had done when I built my first two raised beds is install a couple of midpoint stakes to prevent the beds from shifting over time.Do you garden in raised beds? .
Terraced, raised beds against a fence
I'm planning to build 25 basic 2' x 4' x 10" cedar beds, end-to-end along the fence, with two strawberry plants per bed.Experience tells me the weeds will be (a) even worse in between the beds and the fence and (b) much harder to get at. .
All About Raised-Bed Gardens
Of course, you don’t need a raised bed to grow great-tasting produce—most any plot of flat ground that gets full sun will suffice for that.Raised beds also allow you to start fresh with enriched, uncontaminated soil-; on sloped property, they offer level, easy-to-tend planting areas.And because these beds warm up faster in the spring than those at ground level, you get a head start on the growing season.But all those advantages won’t help if you neglect the soil, and according to sustainable-living expert Greg Seaman, that’s the mistake most beginners make.Here we provide practical advice about the types of frame materials and mulches to use, ways to enhance soil fertility, and the various options for irrigating.Shown: To make optimal use of the space in these raised beds, use tall teepee trellises to provide sturdy supports for pole beans.Choose a spot that gets at least 8 hours of sun a day, and orient each bed so its long side runs east to west.Choose a spot that gets at least 8 hours of sun a day, and orient each bed so its long side runs east to west.Shown: TOH landscape contractor Roger Cook helps a homeowner build a frame out of 2x western red cedar, a naturally rot-resistant wood well suited for this purpose.Until fairly recently, about the only way to get a raised bed was to buy some boards, cut them to size, and screw them together yourself.But these days, you can find a growing assortment of all-inclusive raised-bed kits with precut parts that save time, eliminate guesswork, and offer a variety of looks.They may not have the one-of-a-kind uniqueness of scratch- or pro-built beds, but they come in a wide array of striking materials—including wood, steel, composite boards, and tumbled concrete blocks—that can add a handsome accent to any landscape.They’re held in place by aluminum corners coated with a tough, baked-on finish and are capped with western red cedar.A bed can be any length, as long as the sides are supported every 3 to 4 feet to resist the soil’s outward pressure.Lettuce, potatoes, radishes, strawberries 18–24 inches: Carrots, peas, beans, cucumbers, peppers.This type of bed will last nearly forever with minimal maintenance, but requires a concrete footing poured below the frost line and someone with bricklaying skills to build it.Fitted together and held in place with dabs of construction adhesive, natural stone or look-alike cast-concrete blocks don’t need mortar or a footing, just a tamped crushed-stone base.Hollow vinyl planks won’t rot or rust, are lighter and more flexible than wood, and help insulate the bed from rapid temperature changes, but they do get brittle with age.TO START: Mix equal parts compost with peat moss (or coconut coir) and vermiculite (or perlite).IN THE FALL: Pull up and compost any spent plant material, and cover the soil with a thick layer of ground-up leaves (just run over them with a mower).Or plant seeds for a thick cover crop of alfalfa, buckwheat, white clover, or annual ryegrass.IN THE SPRING: About a month before planting, chop the leaf material or cover crop into bits with a spade or hoe and blend it gently into the soil.Shown: Fill the bed right to the top with soil; it will soon settle a few inches, leaving a lip to hold in the mulch.Rigid powder-coated aluminum brackets from 8 to 35 inches tall form sturdy corners for a range of bed heights.These ABS plastic brackets pivot 270 degrees, allowing you to build beds in interesting, non-rectangular shapes.Hay (alfalfa or a grass) breaks down faster, enriching the soil; but avoid the fresh stuff used for animal feed—it contains weed seeds.Hay (alfalfa or a grass) breaks down faster, enriching the soil; but avoid the fresh stuff used for animal feed—it contains weed seeds.GRASS CLIPPINGS: They’re high in nitrogen and break down quickly, but apply them just 1 inch thick to prevent matting.SEAWEED: Rinsed of salt, this nutrient-rich material contains no weed seeds, acts as a natural fertilizer, and, once dry, stops slugs.SAWDUST: This fine waste forms a water-impenetrable mat and, as with wood chips, can have a negative effect on soil fertility.Thread on a pressure regulator set to 15 psi for spray-free operation, and connect it to a hose bib with a backflow preventer.Thread on a pressure regulator set to 15 psi for spray-free operation, and connect it to a hose bib with a backflow preventer.Drip tape: Flat tubing made of polyethylene—a plastic similar to that in milk jugs—comes in various widths, wall thicknesses, and drip-hole spacing.These tapes only go in straight runs; a rigid manifold at one end of the bed feeds water to each tape.Use a pressure regulator set to 15 psi or less to prevent bursting.These tapes only go in straight runs; a rigid manifold at one end of the bed feeds water to each tape.Use a pressure regulator set to 15 psi or less to prevent bursting.Irrigation controller: A battery-powered timer like the Aquauno Logica ($49; Dripdepot) lets you set the timing, frequency, and duration of waterings.Stop them from sucking up moisture and nutrients by digging a 2-foot-deep trench around the bed and lining it with corrugated plastic panels.Add companion plants such as marigolds, nasturtiums, and petunias to vegetable beds to repel these little suckers.These plants emit compounds that discourage all kinds of damaging insects—including whiteflies, cabbage loopers, and squash bugs—from munching away in your garden.To stop critters from chewing through or digging under it, line it with 4-foot-wide, ½-inch galvanized hardware cloth buried 1 foot deep—even under the gate.To protect tender plants from cold snaps in spring and fall, place a cloche, or small tent, over the bed.Be sure to lift the plastic on sunny days, or provide a vent at the peak on each end so heat can escape.A grid-style trellis attached to a raised bed provides the support that peas and beans need as they climb toward the sun.Flat, smooth capstones offer a welcome place to sit when weeding and harvesting in this custom stone bed.Tip: Before building or setting a raised bed in place, make sure—by excavating, if necessary—that it will be resting on level ground.These curved metal planters are made of weathering steel, an alloy that corrodes only on the surface for a warm rusty finish.Here, wood benches are fastened to the bed’s sides, offering a perch for tending vegetables or taking in the view. .
How to Build a Raised Garden Bed on Sloping, Uneven Ground
We needed to terrace the ground into level ‘steppes’ or build raised beds for the garden vegetable plots in order to keep the valuable soil and amendments in place.Building raised beds was a better solution because they held together for years and required no maintenance. .