Cut through any deep taproots, and lift out the precut piece, making sure to include the grass’s fibrous roots.One drawback to sod removal is the significant loss of organic material, which greatly contributes to the health of plants.You can add organic matter by forking or shoveling compost, manure, grass clippings, or leaf mold onto the sod before tilling.A tilled bed can be planted immediately, but the process brings to the surface weed seeds that may germinate and cause problems later.You may also wind up inadvertently propagating some weeds like quack grass, which can send up new shoots from the small pieces of its chopped-up rhizome.If you keep the soil moist and delay planting by a couple of weeks, you can pull, hoe, or otherwise dispatch these weeds as they emerge.Pros: Retains organic matter; is quicker and easier than digging; permits immediate planting Cons: Is difficult on rocky sites and in wet or clay soils; turns up weed seeds; propagates certain weeds Tip: Large tillers can be hard to maneuver.The high temperatures and lack of light will eventually kill the grass, although they can also destroy beneficial organisms.Cover these biodegradable materials with grass clippings, leaf mold, mulch, or compost to hold the layers in place, keep in moisture, and add organic matter.Newspaper and cardboard do not increase temperature as much as plastic, but they eliminate light, causing chlorophyll to break down.Pros: Does not require the physical effort of removing or turning under sod; leaves original organic matter in place; does not disrupt soil structure Cons: Delays planting up to several months; may kill beneficial organisms if using plastic Tip: Lay down newspaper layers during the summer, and wet them to help keep them in place.Choose an appropriate product, and carefully follow the directions on the label if you decide to use herbicides to kill your grass.Be sure to buy a product designed to kill grasses (not one specific to broad-leaved plants), and check the expiration date.Don’t apply herbicides when rain is expected or they may wash off plants and into the soil and nearby waterways. .

5 Ways to Remove Grass – GrowIt BuildIT

One of the first steps to making your own vegetable garden or new flower beds is to remove the grass from your yard.In this guide I will show you five methods how to remove grass from your lawn (with pictures).This isn’t a fun job to do, but necessary before you can create your flower bed or garden.If you plan on doing any digging at all (more than an inch or two) you should check with your utility company to make sure there are no dangers.Electrical supply lines, cable, internet, water, gas……if you hit any of these with a shovel you could be liable for damage.Check with your local utility company to find out how you can identify line locations (if outside USA).I’ve found that having a friend help measure the area makes the job easier.I’ve found it to have the least strain on my back, as it minimizes the amount of dirt you pull up with the sod.A good sharp, flat shovel makes the job easier.Taking at least 1-2″ (3-5 cm) of dirt will greatly reduce the amount of weeds that are present in the soil.This is because weed seeds arrive to your lawn from the air, and germinate on top of the soil.Related – This is also a great method to employ when fixing low spots in your lawn.Save up cardboard or newspaper until you have accumulated enough to cover the area of your flower bed/garden.Lay out the cardboard over the area on a calm day when the wind is not blowing much.Then put bricks, rocks, or stake the cardboard to the lawn to prevent it from blowing away.You just need to make sure it will stay in place during a heavy storm or a very windy day.A sod cutter can be a low effort way to get rid of grass quickly.In addition to cost, you should take care to remove/avoid rocks as they can damage the sod cutter.You will need to have a vehicle capable of transporting the sod cutter, or pay for them to deliver it for the day.But they make quick work of removing the grass and provide instant results.You should end up with long strips of sod, so for final removal you will either need to roll it up (very heavy) or slice into pads for reuse on your property.For final transport, it might be easier to slice into pads using a shovel rather than making a giant roll that weighs 100+ pounds (50 kg).– Fast results, and less effort than using a shovel Cons – Cost, and risk of damage if you have rocky soil.A rototiller will use spinning blades to ‘churn’ the grass back into the dirt below.It is a power tool that does require some effort to use, but the majority of the work is done by the spinning blades.But you should go slow, as the blades need to make several revolutions to effectively tear up the grass.These can start to change direction a bit, depending on how compacted the soil is as the tiller pulls to one side or the other.This is because the tilling will basically mix several inches of soil up, where as the other methods will only expose a new layer.Why this is a problem is that inside your soil, there are many micro bacteria and fungi that aid the roots of you plants in absorbing nutrients and minerals.Tilling mixes them all up, and breaks them up, making it more difficult to ‘restart’ the growth of these micro bacteria.The abrupt stopping of an embedded rock can easily sheer off the bolts that attach the tines to the tiller.Additionally, the damage caused to your soil structure is will likely require you to supplement with extra fertilizer and compost.I generally don’t use this method, as I try to avoid using harsh chemicals because of the adverse effects on the ecosystem.You can apply a number of herbicides from Round Up to Finale to a mixture of Vinegar/Epsom Salt to kill grass.You just need to spray the area you wish to kill when the grass is dry, and it isn’t too hot out.But definitely make sure the grass is dry, as if the blades are wet, the herbicide may not stick effectively, and you will then have to reapply later.Also, if you have plants nearby that you want to keep – make sure you don’t spray, or that the wind doesn’t carry the herbicide onto those.Herbicides are non-selective, meaning they have the potential to kill or harm any plant they touch.So, there are 5 effective ways for clearing out your grass to build a garden or flower bed.Joe Foster Hi - I grew up outdoors in nature - hiking, fishing, hunting. .

How to Remove Grass for a Garden Bed

When preparing a new garden plot, many readers ask how to remove existing lawn or reclaim a weedy area.Avoid land with lots of invasive grasses (such as Johnsongrass and invincible Bermudagrass); it will be very difficult to be successful in fully removing everything.Avoid floodplains or steeply sloped areas, as they can present challenges related to water and access.Soil must drain well; if it pools water easily or grass won’t even grow there, that’s not a good sign.Heavy clay soil is also going to be challenging; in this case, we would recommend raised bed gardens.This is the common method and simply uses biodegradable cardboard to smother grass and weeds.Start by clearing the surface of any debris and any rocks larger than a hen’s egg.Cover the plot with layers of cardboard or 8 to 10 sheets of newspaper, overlapping the edges by at least 6 inches.If you’re using newspaper, make sure the sheets have black ink only (no color) and cardboard needs to be unwaxed.Once the growing season gets underway, you’ll find that any weeds that do manage to make it through will be much easier to remove.Fast forward a few months and any grass and weeds below will have rotted down, returning all that wonderful nitrogen back to the soil.This will also make it easy to space plants out at exactly the right distance, saving you time thinning out rows of seedlings.Cover the area with a clear or black plastic tarp anchored to the ground.The ground beneath the plastic will heat up so high that it will scorch living grass, as well as weeds, seeds, and soil bacteria.Remove each section by sliding the spade beneath the segment and levering it up and out of the ground.If you are planting a vegetable patch, covering with straw (versus mulch) is another option.Some readers have asked about the “Back to Eden” method, popularized by organic gardener Paul Gautschi.The secret of this top layer is to slow down evaporation and to constantly feed the soil below, so that no additional fertilizers are ever required.We recommend that you reach out to your state’s local cooperative extension for a soil test (usually free or very low cost).Test results will tell you which amendments you need to add to your soil to grow healthy vegetables and flowers.Using a heavy-duty pair of lopping shears, cut small growth straight across and as close to the ground as possible.A sharply cut sapling stub will go straight through a tractor tire or the sole of a shoe.Others that enrich the soil include cowpeas, mustard, oats, alfalfa, clover, winter peas, and timothy.In four to six weeks they can be plowed under, and these are good for preparing vegetable garden if you couldn’t get to your land in the fall.The principle of a green manure crop is that as it decays after being plowed under, it returns to the soil all the nutrients it used while growing.It also adds vital organic matter, so all types of soil, from sand to clay, respond positively to this treatment.Once you’ve fertilized your field (each year’s mulch plowed under helps, so do shredded leaves) you can further improve it by rotation planting.This means dividing your land or garden into several areas and planting different things, changing them each year. .

How to Kill or Remove Grass (& Grow Food Not Lawns

So over the years (and with some help from the chickens) we slowly removed, smothered, or otherwise killed every bit of grass on our property to grow more useful plants in its place.The front and back yards are now littered with raised garden beds, pollinator-friendly perennials, fruit trees, edible shrubs, herbs, and more.Because we were dealing with extremely invasive weedy grass, we had to take fairly extensive measures to make sure it was gone for good.Therefore, this article will discuss several different options to remove, kill, or cover grass to prepare the ground for planting.Our country is obsessed with maintaining excessively huge green lawns simply out of bad habit, and lack of creative vision for something different!According to the National Resources Defense Council, turf grass lawns cover up to 50 MILLION acres of land in the United States alone.Plus, with thoughtful design, organic native and edible landscapes require far less maintenance and resources than grass.If your yard is made up of classic lawn grass like fescue (or other types that don’t creep and run) then simply covering it up may work out just fine.On the other hand, if your lawn is full of invasive, creeping grasses like crabgrass (or has a lot of weeds) then you may want to think twice about leaving it in place.Clearly, if you want to create in-ground garden beds, you’ll need to remove the grass in that space.By removing our grass, we created a nice 4 to 6-inch deep void within the borders of our yard, perfect for filling back in with gravel, fresh soil, compost, and plants.Also, we turned the sprinkler heads away from the area because they were spraying the beds and plants (not ideal) so the grass died back and looked really awful.We later came back to remove all the grass in this area and add weed block landscape fabric, including under the raised beds.Also, even if a chemical spray kills the grass, you would likely still need to remove the leftover dead stuff and roots anyways.No matter what option you choose below, keep in mind that it is easiest to remove grass when it is moderately damp to semi-dry.Alternatively, really dry grass falls apart easily – making it more difficult to lift and remove in solid pieces.Using a shovel to cut and remove grass is a great choice for smaller spaces, or in tight areas with a lot of curves or obstacles.If you are removing only a portion of the grass, mark the desired edge line with a rope, string, or spray paint as a guide.If you’re hoping to keep the sod intact to move and replant elsewhere, feel free to create larger strips to roll up – but they get heavier than you’d imagine!If you’re hoping to keep the sod intact to move and replant elsewhere, feel free to create larger strips to roll up – but they get heavier than you’d imagine!Some sod cutters are smaller manual tools, while others are reminiscent of oversized lawnmower-like machines that cut the grass into long clean strips for you.Rather than peeling the lawn up to haul it away, you could also break it up by tilling it in place – and then work the grass back into the soil.I have never personally worked with a tiller but I understand they can be a bit awkward to maneuver, so plan to manicure any curved or tight edges of your space with hand tools like a shovel or edger first.The soil is loosened in the tilling process, which makes working in compost and other amendments into the planting space even easier.I am not usually a huge fan of tilling since it disrupts the precious established soil food web below the surface.They free range in the backyard where we have several (fenced off) raised garden beds, their coop and run, and what was once a small patch of grass.We pulled out the remaining weedy spots and roots by hand, and then installed our stone raised pollinator island in its place.That is a valid option, though keep in mind the ground surface may settle and sink slightly as it decomposes below.On the other hand, if your goal is to plant things directly in the ground where the grass once was, plan on this process taking several months.One very organic and sustainable way to kill grass is to cover it with a deep natural mulch material.For example, by mulching over the top of grass with leaves, wood chips, compost, leaf mold, bark, pine needles, and/or paper material.Fluffy material like leaves will compact and break down with time, so start out with even more on top – a couple feet even.For instance, use newspaper (at least 8 to 10 sheets thick), unwaxed cardboard, or a couple layers of bulk unbleached masking paper.Or, if you are worried about invasive and persistent weeds coming back, add other types of ground cover to the now-cleared space before adding raised beds or other landscaping on top.Clearly, this method of removing grass requires an abundant supply of mulch material – as well as a dash of patience.If you haven’t heard of solarizing, it is the process of covering the grass in clear plastic to both heat and smother it.When done right, solarizing lawn effectively “cooks” the top foot of soil and can kill grass, weeds, insects, nematodes, and pathogens.It is best to solarize your lawn during the summer (the hottest time of year) and when the target area receives the most direct sun.Think about the heat of a transparent greenhouse, versus the cooling effects of tinted windows or dark shade cloth.Using a dark tarp will make the grass discolored and less healthy below it, but will not provide the same strong heat as clear plastic.Think about the heat of a transparent greenhouse, versus the cooling effects of tinted windows or dark shade cloth.Using a dark tarp will make the grass discolored and less healthy below it, but will not provide the same strong heat as clear plastic.Once the grass is dead, you can either remove it (now we’re back to square one) or apply mulch, compost, raised beds, or other desired ground cover over the top of it.Now let’s talk about grass alternatives for ground cover, including materials to put below raised garden beds, in pathways, or other planting spaces.The ground cover you choose is ultimately a personal decision, based on your unique situation and preferences.Weed-blocking landscape fabric is tightly-woven material that is placed over the ground surface to effectively block weeds, grass, or other plants from growing up from beneath it.We install high-quality weed barrier fabric below all of our deep raised garden beds, along with hardware cloth to block the gophers.We removed the grass with shovels, converted the sprinklers to drip manifolds, installed landscape fabric, added borders with pavers and cobblestones, filled the pathway areas with gravel, and filled the planting zones with fresh soil, compost, and mulch on top of the fabric.Some of the shallow ground cover like creeping thyme and oregano grows well in the 6″ of soil and compost that is on top of the fabric, not needing holes cut.Cardboard and paper do a great job of suppressing grass and weeds, albeit not as long-lasting as landscape fabric.But if the space you’re covering isn’t incredibly weedy, I suggest this route over landscape fabric.As we discussed in the “deep mulch” section above, unwaxed cardboard, layers of newspaper, or bulk sheet paper can be used to cover the ground surface (with or without grass beneath it).In open spaces like pathways, add a mulch of choice on top to keep the paper down and provide a clean finished look.It wasn’t weedy enough to require landscape fabric, though there were some leftover grass roots we wanted to smother.Because the cardboard will degrade with time, we knew the roots wouldn’t be permanently restricted as they would be with landscape fabric.Mulch helps reduce runoff and evaporation, retain soil moisture, and increase organic matter content.Natural mulch options include bark or shredded bark, wood chips, straw, pine needles, compost, grass clippings, small gravel, or even larger rocks like river rocks or cobblestone.In the perimeter and pollinator islands of the front yard garden, we mulch with a combination of compost and small bark.In this area we used shredded redwood and small bark as the only ground cover/mulch, with bare native soil below.I especially love the way green ground cover looks between pavers or flagstone and around borders.If you choose to go this route, research what types of ground cover will grow well in your climate – with as little fuss and maintenance possible.If you live in an arid climate and the ground cover is going to need a lot of supplemental water, it may not be worth the resources and effort.You can get quite creative with ground cover, choosing a variety of textures, heights, incorporate tall native grasses, or even succulents in the right climate.A mass of trailing rosemary and thyme, serving as a lush and low-maintenance living ground cover in this part of the stone pollinator island.A sturdy border is particularly important to prevent creeping weeds and grass from invading the fresh space.The terrace board can be dug deep between the transition zones, effectively preventing shallow creeping grass from crossing to the other side.I hope this article gave you some great ideas and inspiration to kill some grass – and to Grow Food, Not Lawns! .

How to Kill Grass in Flower Beds

Chemical herbicides are available as liquid concentrates that you mix with water and apply with a garden sprayer, as well as in premixed forms sold in spray bottles.If the grass is close to ornamental plants, you can block the spray with a piece of cardboard or shield them with an overturned bucket.Warning Many herbicides contain chemicals that can harm the health of humans, pets, wildlife, and the environment.Pre-emergents can be used along with other measures to help control grasses and weeds, but they will also prevent desirable seeds from germinating.Pre-emergent weed killers usually come in a granular form that is blended into the garden soil.Flame: A variety of propane torch tools are available that allow you to kill weeds by hitting them with very high heat.A variety of propane torch tools are available that allow you to kill weeds by hitting them with very high heat.Corn gluten: This is an organic option that's normally applied to lawns to control crabgrass and other weeds.However, most grasses are perennial plants that can regrow if even a small bit of root remains.So complete removal involves carefully loosening the soil and tugging out as much of the roots as possible.Hand removal is an ongoing process and can be done whenever you are performing routine weeding duties in the garden.But for a small garden or one that has minor grass problems, this is an environmentally friendly solution.Instead, use wood chips, shredded leaves, or compost, all of which will prevent grass seeds from germinating and make weeding duties easier. .

How to Get Rid of a Lawn Full of Weeds

All year long, we look forward to sinking our feet into lush, radiant green grass.But nobody wants stringy ivy, coarse clovers or fuzzy dandelions grazing your toes instead!Luckily, you can bring your lawn back to life by ridding it of weeds and boosting your turf's health.Taming a lawn full of weeds might feel daunting, but it’s all about keeping your turf as healthy as can be.Reversing these problems and maintaining a healthy lawn is the best way to permanently say goodbye to weeds.Since treatments are made to target specific weeds, you’ll need to figure out what’s plaguing your lawn before buying products.Mow your lawn regularly in spring and summer, being careful not to remove more than a third of grass at a time.Head to a home improvement store instead of the supermarket to find vinegar with 10 to 20 percent acetic acid.If you spray that, you can kill 80 to 100 percent of weeds’ top growth, found USDA research. .

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